McIntosh County
With fewer than 10,000 residents, McIntosh County offers the greatest diversity
of attractions and the least foot traffic of any county on the Georgia coast.
The county features several commercial fishing villages, three wildlife refuges,
one marine sanctuary, numerous coastal restaurants, two historic forts, several
antebellum rice plantations, and the magnificent Altamaha River. Because it
is a little off the beaten path, McIntosh County still retains the flavor of
the "good old days" on the Georgia coast, but this may be changing
as development comes to the county.
McIntosh County is fronted by three barrier islands to the east: Blackbeard,
a national wildlife refuge; Sapelo, a wildlife refuge and research reserve;
and Wolf, a national wildlife refuge that is predominately tidal marsh. To visit
Blackbeard, one must charter or use one's own boat. Sapelo is reached by a ferry
that carries tourists twice a week to the island. Wolf Island National Wildlife
Refuge can be viewed from the water by private boat or charter, but the beach
and all upland areas are closed to the public. Harris Neck National Wildlife
Refuge, located on the mainland, is very accessible and is excellent for bird
watchers and naturalists.
The most difficult wildlife habitat to see is Gray's Reef National Marine Sanctuary,
located offshore 17.5 miles east of the McIntosh County, and 60 feet below the
surface. The sanctuary attracts both fishermen and scuba divers that are interested
in the live bottom's marine life.
McIntosh County is defined by the South Newport River to the north and the Altamaha
River to the south. At the northern end of the county, Interstate 95 and US
17 enter at the middle of the county and cross the Altamaha River channels near
Darien at the southern end. Most of the attractions described here are east
of these highways. A great place to start is at the McIntosh County Welcome
Center located in Darien next to the US 17 bridge, where excellent maps and
tourist information are readily available. To visit attractions in the northern
portion of McIntosh (north of the Sapelo River) such as Harris Neck National
Wildlife Refuge and Shellman Bluff, use Interstate 95 Exits 12/67 and 11/58.
For other attractions, use Exit 11/58 at Eulonia or 10/49 at Darien, and proceed
on GA 99, which makes an arc from Darien to Eulonia along the eastern front
of McIntosh County, past the historic marsh-front communities of Crescent, Cedar
Point, Valona, Meridian, Ridgeville, and Ashantilly. (The best book about McIntosh
County is the 858-page Early
Days on the Georgia Tidewater by Buddy Sullivan, one of the finest county
histories ever written.)
A navigational note: Many roads are poorly marked. Local restaurants and other
attractions have responded by putting up numerous small signs to their establishments.
Some citizens believe the signs are tacky road trash, other say they are part
of McIntosh County's charm. As you leave Interstate 95 or US 17 looking for
one of these attractions, you might want to look for signs that will lead you
to your destination.
The Smallest Church in America
[Fig. 13(2)] Near the
community of South Newport is "The Smallest Church in America," a
popular local landmark that is open to the traveling public 24 hours a day.
Located near US 17, the church is situated in a pine grove called Memory Park
that is deeded to Jesus Christ to prevent it from ever being sold. The diminutive
Christ's Chapel has room for 12 worshipers, not including a priest, within its
10 feet by 15 feet dimensions. Weddings and special services are held at the
church from time to time. It was built in 1950 by a rural grocer named Mrs.
Agnes C. Harper. She wanted to provide travelers a quiet sanctuary for meditation
and interdenominational worship. The church's interior features a high-pitched
roof with exposed beams, along with stained glass windows. A glass star in the
roof permits light and inspiration into the interior.
- Directions: From I-95, take Exit 12/67 to US 17, go south 1.2 miles
to church on left.
Harris Neck National Wildlife Refuge
[Fig. 13(1), Fig.
15(1)] During World War II, P-39 and P-40 fighter planes were common in
the skies over Harris Neck when the refuge served as an U.S. Army Air Force
base. Today, the airfield is a small but important national wildlife refuge
where hawks, egrets, herons, and ducks cruise above abandoned runways.
With
2,765 acres, the Harris Neck National Wildlife Refuge is one of the smaller
coastal refuges in Georgia, located on the northeastern end of McIntosh County
on the South Newport River. Ten Harris Neck refuges could fit into the Savannah
National Wildlife Refuge. Despite its modest size, the refuge's diversity of
habitat and network of roads providing easy access make it popular with birders,
and the refuge is a stop on the Colonial Coast Birding Trail. The freshwater
pools, open fields, mixed hardwoods, and salt marsh support many species of
wildlife. Besides the birdlife, a variety of flowering plants are found on the
refuge. Prickly pear are abundant and can be seen blooming in the fields during
May and June.
More than 15 miles of paved roads cross the old airfield, which make the refuge
easily accessible to families, photographers, and the physically handicapped.
Visitors will enjoy their experience more if they bring binoculars, a bird book,
and bug spray. Most popular is the 4-mile wildlife drive, which meanders through
the refuge. Near the GA 131 entrance are two fishing piers that are popular
with crabbers and shrimpers and an adjacent ramp provides access for boaters
into the nearby tidal rivers. Another public boat ramp is found at the southeastern
end of the refuge at Barbour River Landing, which is used by boaters and fishermen.
Managed hunts are scheduled each year that allow permit holders to hunt deer
and hogs.
In the summer, freshwater ponds and flooded woodlands south of the airfield
support large rookeries of tricolored, green-backed, and little blue herons;
anhingas; white ibis; and wood storks. In spring and summer, many ducks use
the ponds, including common moorhens, purple gallinules, and wood ducks. Large
concentrations of ducks such as teal, mallards, and gadwalls gather in the freshwater
pools and marshlands in the winter.
During spring and fall migrations, the woodlands attract many songbird species.
Warblers, vireos, sparrows, and thrushes flit from branch to branch in the live
and water oaks and pines as they sing their signature songs. Pileated woodpeckers
make use of hardwoods for food and shelter. Year-round residents are deer, feral
hogs, raccoons, rabbits, opossums, armadillos, snakes, and fox squirrels. Lucky
visitors may see flocks of wild turkeys feasting on acorns or dusting themselves
on the refuge's sandy fields. The open fields are hunting grounds for a variety
of raptors, including red shouldered hawks, northern harriers, and American
kestrels. Occasionally, the birder is treated to a southern bald eagle or peregrine
falcon. Stalking fish in the tidal marsh are wading birds such as great blue
herons and egrets. A checklist of bird species identified at the refuge is available
by contacting the Savannah Coastal Refuges office.
The
refuge is the northern end or "head" on top of the long, narrow isthmus
that was named for Harris Plantation. Several plantations were located on the
strip of high ground, which experienced cotton, livestock, timbering, and rice
cultivation activities. The most famous of these was the antebellum Peru Plantation
belonging to the Thomas family. After the Civil War, much of Harris Neck was
sold in small plots to former slaves, who practiced subsistence farming and
raised cattle and chickens. The most famous resident of Harris Neck was Pierre
Lorillard, the tobacco magnate, who first spied the area from the deck of his
yacht and decided to build a winter retreat here. In 1890 on Harris Neck near
the South Newport River, he started on a home that included outdoor fountains
and pools. He did not use the estate much because he died within a decade of
building the home, which later became federal, then county, property.
In the mid-1930s, the Federal government established an emergency landing field
at Harris Neck to serve airplanes using the Jacksonville-Richmond air route.
After the attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, the government moved to
prepare for World War II in earnest. By July 6, 1942, the Federal authorities
condemned 1,200 acres, most of it owned by black farmers, and built Harris Neck
Air Base, which consisted of 11 prefabricated buildings and several concrete
runways. The army installation was used as an integral part of submarine air
reconnaissance. Planes watched for German U-boats that patrolled Georgia's shoreline
during World War II. Fighter-bomber training operations were also conducted
at Harris Neck.
Abandoned in 1(912) 944, the air base became property of McIntosh County. Controversy
erupted when the airfield and nearby Lorillard estate were looted and stripped
of anything of value while under the management of county authorities. Two county
commissioners were charged with stealing, but a local judge dropped charges.
The Federal government then took action, reclaiming the property and making
it a national wildlife refuge in 1962.
The wildlife drive winds around the property, going past Bluebill and Woody
ponds south of the runways. Then the route turns north before turning east right
down the middle of a runway, traveling past Snipe, Goose, Teal, and Greenhead
ponds. After passing Greenhead Pond, a spur on the left goes north to the South
Newport River. Heading right, or south, the visitor passes Wigeon Pond and approaches
Barbour River Landing and historic Gould's Cemetery, used by the Gould family,
who were coastal settlers, and later black families from Harris Neck.
Hunting: Managed hunts for deer and feral hogs are offered each year. Those
wishing to hunt in the refuge must apply for a permit for the particular period
when a hunt is scheduled. Bow hunting for deer and hogs is permitted during
a period in in September and gun hunting for deer is permitted in a period in
November. Contact the Savannah Coastal Refuges office for regulations and an
application form.
- Trails: 15 miles of networked trails and abandoned roadways. 4-mile
auto tour. Biking is excellent on the trails.
- Directions: I-95 south from Savannah to Exit 12/67. Go east on US
17 for 1 mile to GA 131. Go east on GA 131 for 7 miles to refuge gate.
- Activities: Wildlife drive, bird-watching, hiking, biking, fishing,
hunting, boating, canoeing, picnicking, nature study. Guided tours are occasionally
available to conservation-oriented organizations through the Savannah Coastal
Refuges office.
- Facilities: Restrooms, exhibit shelter, boat launch, fishing piers,
trails, auto tour. Boat ramps: Harris Neck Creek Recreation Area, located
near the entrance of the wildlife refuge, has a boat ramp suitable for small
motorized boats and canoes. Fishing piers are popular with anglers. Open sunrise
to sunset 7 days a week. Barbour River Landing, located at the termination
of GA 131 on the Barbour River, is open 4 a.m. to midnight. Jet Skis are prohibited.
- Dates: Open sunrise to sunset 7 days a week. Closed two weeks annually
for deer hunts in fall and winter. Portions of refuge may be closed seasonally
to prevent disturbance to wood stork rookery.
- Fees: No charge.
- Closest town: Shellman Bluff.
- For more information: U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, Savannah
Coastal Refuges, Parkway Business Center, Suite 10, 1000 Business Center Drive,
Savannah, GA 31405. Phone (912) 652-4415.
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